Nashville’s Got Hills, Trees, and Biscuits

Much like Portland, and not much like north Texas, Nashville is hilly and tree-laden. They say it’s been a dry summer here just like in Texas, but the trees certainly wouldn’t make you believe that. They’re green and huge and obviously hungry for the souls of young virgins.

Yesterday morning Brit said he’d go for a run so I joined. Running turned into walking, and I followed as we walked through the winding neighborhoods to get to a park that runs alongside the river. It turns out that park was super far away and, to make a three and a half hour long story short, we ended up walking about twelve miles (an estimation) round-trip.

When we returned we were starving and wiped out so we ate lunch and then sat around doing computer things. I looked up a list of places to eat around Nashville and found a lovely place called Loveless that Brit had heard of and that was allegedly famous.

We drove clear across the city to get there and got put on their waiting list. “It’ll be an hour,” said the hostess nonchalantly. I looked surprised, which made her look even more nonchalant. Loveless was evidently a very popular place, as the wall of signed celebrity photos would lead us to believe (there were a lot of country music stars I’m unfamiliar with, but also Conan, Gene Simmons, Samantha Brown, the American Pickers guys, Paula Dean, Santa, and a lot of other people).

Loveless was used to making people wait a long time, so they had built a small city around their restaurant. There was a Country Store which told us about the Natchez Trace which is a long and scenic trail that sounds awesome and runs from Nashville down to Mississippi. There was a bike shop and an antique store and a lot of chairs for sitting, and before long our hour was gone and we’d read so much about the famous Loveless biscuits (#1 Biscuits in the Country, says some biscuit-loving publication) and the famous (and recently deceased) biscuit lady that made them famous that we were drooling as we were seated.

The waitress brought some biscuits and we constantly said the word “biscuit” while we devoured them and took pictures of us devouring them. We ordered Jack Daniel’s lemonades and were surprised when they showed up in bottles, but then we drank them and they were delicious so we decided not to start the riot we’d threatened.

I had a BBQ Pork omelet, which was pretty awesome, but the real treat were the biscuits. I ate 6.5 of those things, and when we left Loveless we were drunk on them. The GPS took us down some weird back road and we made alien jokes while somehow still managing to talk about biscuits.

When we got back to the house, we decided to watch Linklater’s Slacker, which was totally important and neither of us had seen. It turned out to be a bit boring, painting early ’90s Austin as a place for directionless eccentrics – which perhaps it was – and even though I didn’t particularly enjoy the somewhat typical Linklateriness of it (engaging and animated conversation punctuated by bouts of nothingness), I can appreciate what he was going for and what it did for film.

Then I spent the rest of the night reading about cameras and imagining a world in which I get a job and have money and can spend it making cool things. That world might not be far away, or it might be just as far as it’s always been. Guess we’ll see soon enough.

We woke up today with the intention to go to the Pancake Pantry, Nashville’s most famous breakfast place. We left at 10 am, and in retrospect the whole idea was sort of dumb. It’s a super famous place and we left moderately late (for breakfast) on a Sunday. On their website they even have their own theme song. We should have known they’d be packed. By the time we got there, the line was almost stretched to the next intersection and our bellies forbade us not to wait in it.

We obliged and instead ate next door at Jackson’s Bistro, where Brit ordered a Monte Cristo that would later threaten his life while we perused book aisles in a local bookstore. After eating we walked what ended up being a further distance than we thought (as is the norm for us) to get to the Parthenon.

It’s the only full-scale replica of the Parthenon and they built it because Nashville is “the Athens of the South”, simply due to the abundance of Universities around here. It was massive and magnificent and lovely, and we danced on its pillars like the gargoyles I wish we were. Really. Gargoyles are cool and I wouldn’t mind being one if being one is anything like that cartoon from my childhood.

We walked back talking about the Darkness and how we wondered what ever happened to them (their singer went to rehab but they just got back together!). We looked around a bookstore for a while, and then bought tickets to The Interrupters at the Belcourt and watched it with a giant theater full of only four other people.

The documentary was excellent, depicting Chicago’s inner-city (perhaps rightfully) as a war zone in which children are shot and killed for sitting outside at the wrong time of day. The interrupters are a group of ex-gang members gone straight who try to stop kids from making the mistakes they did, and time and time again I was amazed by how effective they really were. It was very well pieced together, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it wins the Oscar (there’s my elementary Oscar documentary prediction).

Then we went to Grimey’s once again and I bought an album I’ve been meaning to buy for a super long time. Made it back to the house and made some awesome sandwiches on onion rolls, then watched the Emmys. Overall, I like award shows, though I really wish I could skip boring awards and all of the commercials. Of course I could record and fast forward through that mess later, but that wasn’t an option tonight and so we endured.

Though I haven’t seen every show nominated for everything, I’m disappointed John Slattery and Jon Hamm didn’t win. My crush on Mad Men is pretty severe and I can’t imagine shows doing TV better than Weiner and co. have been doing it.

Once the show finally went off, we were a bit delusional. I ended up watching some more camera videos before deciding the blogosphere needs to know about the latest adventures.



~ by Jonathan Forisha on September 18, 2011.

One Response to “Nashville’s Got Hills, Trees, and Biscuits”

  1. […] soon be a travel blog once again (be sure to go back and check out my Summer Road Trip, Portland, Nashville, Chicago, and St. Louis entries), though I most likely won’t be updating while […]

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